Caterpillar D6N - slot dozing
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I was taught the technique a while back by old timers, it works.
You can't argue with the logic and principle of it, It's a tried and true technique.
To make a long story short- Start closest to the pile and work up a blade full, jam it to the pile.
Back up past your last starting point, far enough back as to achieve a full blade, jam it to the pile.
Sometimes in ideal conditions you can cut up a full blade push it halfway to the pile, back up and grab another bladeful and then drift both blade loads to the pile.
All of these passes are made in a straight line to the pile.
I cut in first, get a bladeful, and then drift it in 2nd, The cut and drift technique, if you will.
Once the cut is finished, clean up the windrows from the farthest point from the pile, funneling the sides into the center and pushing to pile.
I personally push a bladeful in from one side, then one from the opposite side and then push them both to the pile.
The sides of the cut and windrows trap the soil being pushed and contain it in front of the blade, no soil is lost to the sides of the blade.
According to the Caterpillar Performance Handbook edition 36, section 1, page 42, slot dozing has a 1.
I just went over the jist of it, there are different conditions that will effect your outcome.
I'm sure others will chime in with more detailed instructions, I'm just a dumb redneck so it's hard for me to put my thoughts and experience into writing.
I just wanted to get the ball rolling and help other hands.
It is amazing the amount of dirt you can move this way if you keep your head in the game and try not to go for the easy dirt.
Now if you have to rip hard dirt is it possible to push and rip at the same time?
I've ripped and pushed with dozers and graders, it probably isn't any more productive, just didn't have the snot.
I've also "slot dozed" with a 12G.
Poor girl was sweatin' when we got done, someone put gravel in the wrong spot and all we had was a 12G and a roller.
When building a dam and I had gotten my stripping and cutoff trench or weep trench done, I started at the back of the pond and in low gear.
I pushed everything it would push plowing my way to the dam letting the extra fall off as I went to eventually build my 'slot'.
Then I would backup in a higher gear, back down low forward and 'plow' again.
Did that every push until time to clean up the loose stuff.
When stripping topsoil off a place, I always started at the far point away from where I was going to pile it.
Also kept a comfortable incline to push the biggest load of dirt I could push up it until the very last pushes Bigshow, I agree completely with everything you describe as your method of slot dozing - exactly as you put it including the method of cleaning up.
I also will sometimes push up a bladefull and then grab another and take it to the fill or pile.
I am not sure if the two bladefull pushes, after calculating the extra time to do so, are what is slot dozing productive or not, but if the conditions are right it at least changes things up a bit.
I believe it takes awhile to train oneself that pushing a bit less in second is indeed more productive than boiling material up all the way.
Regarding ripping and dozing at the same time, it may pay off in the right what is slot dozing if you are not ripping full depth, but I am not convinced that it is more productive in general.
This could also depend alot on dozer size ant type.
It may work with a 9R and semi-U but not full U, etc.
Often times if I know I will have to rip an entire area, I will cross rip, or rip at click at this page angle before starting do doze.
Starting your cut at the "back" and pushing forward- I do that when stripping topsoil for two reasons, 1-Less contamination of your top and sub soils, 2-Once a blade full is achieved it drifts across the existing grass with less resistance, allowing for the cut and drift method to be used a with a bit less effort.
Thanks for the description I am new to bulldozer operation.
So for slot dozing I am picturing the lost dirt from the edges of the blade making a little tunnel the whole way to the pile to push through.
But what is the cut and drift method?
To my way of thinking it, the cut and drift method is describing the parts of the push.
In the first part, you cut with the blade until it is full, then you ease up the pressure and drift, or as I call it, carry, the dirt to the end of the push.
Some operators continue the cutting all the way to the end of the push making dirt boil over the whole way.
That is a waste of time, power, fuel, and wear and tear on the machine.
By easing up and just pushing the dirt already in front of the blade, you do more with less effort.
This is where the slot comes into play, as if you have no slot, you loose your dirt around the edges and have to continue refilling the blade.
When cutting your slot, start filling the blade close to the end of the push.
The next time, back up just enough farther that you have time to completely fill the blade.
This way, the slot is created by cutting a slot, not by piling up the windrow from the side of the blade.
How far you click the following article up each time depends on the click to see more dozer and the type of material you are cutting.
I was recently doing it with a D-8 in stockpiled gravel, and would cut about 3 to 4 feet deep and back up maybe 8 to 10 feet farther each pass.
This filled the blade and left a slot as deep as the blade was high.
The only time to start at the farthest point and work closer is when keeping material like topsoil separate from the other materials, or when pushing the final little bit of trimmings.
Some excellent explanations here.
As folks will realise I have been banging on about this ever since I've been posting on HEF.
There are thousands of 'dozer hands out there who don't understand the concept.
As was mentioned on another thread a good operator will modify technique to suit conditions but, generally speaking, the further the departure from the basic premise the more production suffers.
JDOFMEMI put it beautifully with this sentence.
This to me is getting to the heart of the matter.
The cut has to be in a fit condition to push.
Unless the blade will bury in float or slack rope on a cable machine it needs to be ripped.
Folks have set me straight about all sorts of horrible material around the world and I understand there are materials that just have to be peeled.
I also realise there are beautiful bottomless topsoils, but, in my experience peat and sand are about the only materials in which a blade will bury without ripping.
I have never noticed folks in the US speak of "floors"?
A floor as I know it is the depth of a rip in any given excavation.
Generally speaking, for general contracting I prefer just to use the two outer tines on a set of three tine hooks.
It is easier to pull and get down to depth and of course better for ripping trees and stumps.
Time spent ripping is seldom wasted and, with the two tine set-up I mostly rip two ways at right angles cross-rip straddling each pass.
With a D8H this will give about three foot "floors" which as Jerry mentioned is taken out in one pass.
That is to say.
It may take a couple of pushes to get that first part of the slot established but that is the key to whole operation.
You keep the slot clean and work the tractor on the hard interface between the ripped floor and the hard unripped soil below.
This achieves maximum traction for the machine and minimum friction learn more here the soil in front of the blade as it moves along the slot.
And so it continues across the excavation pushing out the slots the full depth of the rip from front to back.
I leave about a third of a blade width between slots as rills.
This is the "cheap dirt".
As bigshow mentions they are worked from back to front and the slots must be maintained.
I sort of set the tractor at an angle and push a section of the rill into the slot move it forward and then pick up a second what is pachinko game full.
I should mention that in a conventional steering clutch tractor the steering is mostly undertaken with the blade tilt.
I have never run anything with diff or planetary steering and can imagine such systems would be very effective for this application.
I what is the new mafia games go to much trouble cleaning up the floor and carry out the first pass of the next rip in the direction of the push.
This knocks down the remaining rills what is slot dozing the main beam and makes for a smoother ride with what is slot dozing cross rip.
I have seen it done the other way.
Scrub, I'll elaborate a bit on the application I was talking about in the other thread, of pushing down for shovels.
The main purpose is to lower the face height, so a shovel can safely dig it.
Typical safe face height is around 60 feet, and you will mostly be bringing that down from about 120 feet to 180 feet in height before pushing.
In this application, you work a 2:1 downhill slope, in hard material that needs to be thoroughly ripped.
Part of the objective is to make sure the material going over the face is not too chunky, and that is, in part, one of the reasons I mentioned you have to cut the whole length of the push, and from the back.
Another reason is the steepness of the cut.
If you cut from the front end of the cut, and carve out a slot, the material will slab out on you, leaving a vertical face behind you that is extremely hard to get back over.
This is why we can't use a true slot method, as you need to leave yourself an escape route, to make sure you don't have to try and get out of a slot what is slot dozing is too deep, and too steep to do so safely.
The only other option is to go over the face.
Which is fine when it's 80 feet or so, but when it's 150 feet, with no push down in front of you, it's not, in any way, pleasant.
I'm on my phone, so I'm condensing this for ease of typing.
Hope I didn't leave anything out.
I think the whole idea of slot pushing is to get all the dozer will push in front of the blade so it really doesn't matter that much which type blade you have.
Randy: I have machines with full U dozers, SU dozers, S blades, and PAT blades.
Different machines for different jobs, but the method for slot dozing is the same no matter the size tractor or the type what is slot dozing blade on it.
Alco That sounds like a similar experience to reclaiming waste dumps.
You do not want to get too much of a slot going there, as good sized rocks will become exposed, leaving you to do the slip n slide while trying to back up a 2:1 slope.
You need to leave room to maneuver around the shiny spots as you back up, or you may find yourself sideways in a hurry.
If trapped in a slot, you will not get turned around, but if you can't get over the rock, because the first slide drags all of the crumbs down away from it leaving an insurmountable face, it may leave you with a long trip down the face and hopefully to a spot you can get back to the top.
I learned this the hard way many years ago and had about a 4 to 5 mile tram to get back to the face I belonged on.
Thanks for that, an excellent description of a specialised application.
As you will understand my comments apply to bulk excavation in reasonable material often pushing uphill building pond banks and levees.
On such applications correct technique can almost double production with the same tractor.
Seems hard to imagine but I have seen it with calculated yardage.
As others have said blade type doesn't make much difference, technique is the same although obviously the "U" type could provide some slight advantage when shallow cutting top-soil and the final clean up of rills.
For me though the blade of choice was always an angle blade on a "C" frame with hydraulic tilt.
For a while I ran a Seven with a string blade front mounted PCU and hydraulic hooks and tilt.
When working slots as described I believe the wider blade is an advantage.
This is an interesting discussion and it would be good to have some more applications and opinions.
I am interested in what everyones opinions are on slot dozing production with a semi U vs.
It is a no brainer when cleaning up and such, but I have often felt that a person can match a full U with a semi U by virtue of standing material higher in the slot in front of the dozer.
Add to that less leverage and easier steering adjustment, and less surface area horizontally - width wise with witch to to create resistance, and I feel that production while in the slot is comparable.
When working floors as I mentioned I don't think it makes much difference.
With a herd of tractors pushing up ring tanks the angle blades would often out produce the "teaspoons" as we called them.
Under some ideal conditions the material doesn't roll and just shears off at the interface at the bottom of the rip.
It is possible to have a "train" of ripper deep undisturbed sections getting pushed to the fill complete with ripper marks until the blade is lifted to start the spread.
I never liked the full "U"'s on that application.
As mentioned in a previous post in certain conditions a wide angle blade helps keep material out of the tracks.
I would imagine it would be a factor in track wear, fuel use and production if it goes on month after month.
I reckon a wide angle blade on a high-track would be the ultimate weapon to obviate the issue.
Yes Scrub, they do - at least up to D8s.
Typically they are for special purposes I think.
I saw a whole fleet of them owned by a pipeline company in South Dakota a couple of years ago, for backfiling I suppose?
I am pretty sure if the slot is right, you won't be able to tell the difference between a U and a SU blade.
You are pushing the limit of what the tractor has the horsepower and traction to move, if the slot is done right.
I have never had an angle dozer on a large machine, but they are popular with the pipeliners.
I question the volume pushed by them, as the top of the blade seems much shorter than the SU I run.
It does not seem to me like the width is enough greater to make up for it, and the material rolls forward sooner, not piling as high since the radius of the blade face is smaller.
With material like Scrub mentions that does not roll, this may be less of a consideration.
I do think the wider blade will create more friction with the ground as opposed to the narrower, taller U or SU blades.
It may not be a lot, but like all the other little things, it adds up over time.
There are applications where the angle dozer would be handy on a D-8 or even a D-9, and I would not mind having one to try some day.
There was a contractor in these parts that built an angle dozer for a D-9L to use knocking down fill on large jobs where a grader could not keep up.
I forget how wide, but I believe it was over 20', and it was built like the smaller Case dozers with hydraulic angle cylinders in the push arms, so the operator could reverse direction with ease on the move.
As for keeping the material out of the tracks, I have no trouble most times with the SU blade on the D-8T.
The blade is wide enough that with a good tall slot the loose material falls what is slot dozing to the edge of the shoes, but I am not running in it.
Sometimes an odd rock slips by, but it usually does not get in the tracks, and it is easy enough to miss when backing up.
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